Waimano, Waiau campout

Waimano–Waiau Overnight Backpack

I’m on vacation this week (Spring Recess), and so is my friend Bill Melemai. We hadn’t hiked together in several months, so Bill suggested an overnight backpack. His first choice was Haleakala, followed by Poamoho–Schofield, but circumstances ruled both out. Our third option—Waimano–Waiau—worked for both of us, so that became the plan.

We started at 12:45 p.m. on Tuesday at the Waimano trailhead. Bill’s wife, Donna, dropped us off and planned to pick us up at the end of Kaahumanu Street sometime Wednesday afternoon. I was carrying a fairly light load—no more than 15 pounds—while Bill’s pack weighed closer to 35. Over the course of the trip, he heard me extol the virtues of lightweight backpacking often enough that he became convinced he should rethink his gear choices in the future.

Our plan for Day 1 was to hike in to the five-mile marker campsite along Waimano. From there, we’d set up camp and then fetch water from the stream just before the 5.5-mile marker. The hike in was slow and leisurely, with a long break at the picnic shelter just past the 2.5 marker. We reached five-mile camp around 4:30 and quickly set up our tents as dark clouds swept down toward us from up-valley.

I was using a Walrus Micro Swift bivy, while Bill slept in a Peak 1 Cobra. Both shelters held up well, though mine was noticeably less roomy.

We collected a couple of gallons of water from the stream via a trail makai of the 5.5 marker. Back at camp, I treated the water with iodine and later filtered it a liter at a time using my SafeWater Anywhere squeeze bottle. After adding Crystal Light iced tea mix, we had plenty of drinkable water for the night and the next day.

Since this was just an overnight trip, we went cookless. For dinner, I ate a can of Vienna sausage, some peanuts, and a protein drink (two scoops of whey mixed with Waimano Stream Water Iced Tea). Bill had an MRE entrée with a Tiger’s Bar for dessert.

After dinner, we talked story in the clearing next to our tents under a patchy night sky that revealed only a handful of stars. Rain chased us into our tents around nine, and after a few more minutes of conversation, I drifted off to sleep.

The night turned chilly, and I slept less comfortably than I might have if I’d brought a sleep cover and a long-sleeve top. I’d deliberately left the former behind and completely forgotten the latter—lesson learned. Camping, as I’m continually reminded, is a never-ending learning experience.

The sound of rain on our tents greeted us at 6:00 the next morning. By 6:30, the shower had passed, and we emerged to see what kind of day lay ahead. Though the sky was gray toward the summit, it was brighter makai, giving us hope for decent hiking weather.

We were packed and on the trail by 7:30. The earlier rain had made parts of the trail muddy, but overall it wasn’t bad. We hiked at an easy pace and reached the summit around 9:00. A brisk breeze rose from Waihee Valley below, and the summit crest was clear.

I pointed out the wrong-way ridge toward Manana and, in the opposite direction, the broad, flat-topped summit plateau of Waimalu Middle Ridge. I also made an entry in a logbook left in a bottle at the summit and spotted several familiar names.

Bill had never crossed this section of the Koolau summit before and was a bit unsure of what to expect. I reminded him of the old summit-hiking maxim: If you have to fall, fall to the right—the left being the sheer windward pali. Bill laughed nervously.

The crossover to Waiau is short but windy. At the heavily ribboned Waiau terminus junction, I planted a red ti stalk I’d picked up lower on Waimano, hoping it would take root and mark the spot for future hikers.

We enjoyed the upper section of Waiau Ridge, which was still open from trail maintenance done the previous October. Midway down, the trail became brushier, but even there we had no trouble with our packs.

Lunch was at the junction with Brandon Stone’s trail to the old cabin near Waimano Stream. Though faint, the double ribbons and terrain confirmed the correct spur.

After lunch, we passed the Big Dip, Wing’s rescue spot, and the junction to Waimalu Valley before tackling the rollercoaster middle section of Waiau. The heat made it tough, but we pushed on one hill at a time.

A day hiker coming up from Kaahumanu claimed the rest was all downhill. I corrected him—several climbs still remained. “This is one hell of a downhill,” I joked as we climbed yet another rise.

Near the bottom, I briefly explored the new Halapepe Nui Trail connecting Waiau to Waimano, scheduled for its maiden club hike on April 28.

The final stretch followed a jeep road to a water tank and then pavement down to Kaahumanu Street. Along the way, I spotted a black rabbit darting into the brush.

Donna was delayed by traffic, so we walked on. A quarter mile down, we spotted a turtle crossing the road. Bill decided to take it home, wrapping it gently in a wet towel and stowing it in his pack.

Rabbit earlier, turtle now—perhaps we’d interrupted a race between the tortoise and the hare. (Sorry.)

A security guard at the gated community turned out to be friendly and explained that hikers are allowed vehicle access if they sign in and record license numbers. Good to know.

We rested at Waiau District Park under a large tree while Little Leaguers practiced and soccer players trained nearby. Soon after, Donna arrived with super-sized soft drinks and hot dogs, which we promptly demolished. Thanks, Donna!

In total, we covered about 15 miles and enjoyed decent weather. While the route can be done as a day hike, tackling it as an overnight backpack made for a pleasant and worthwhile variation.

—dkt