Koolau Summit Trail: Pupukea to Waikane
By dkt
There's a saying that only fools rush in where angels fear to tread. What does this have to do with the following account? Read on and you'll hopefully see the connection.
Nine of us took the plunge into the mud of the Oahu mountains this weekend, hiking from Pupukea to Waikane via the Koolau Summit Trail (KST). We spent two nights out, the first at the Kawailoa terminus and the second at the Poamoho Cabin.
Day 1: Saturday (5/26)
We rendezvoused at Kay Lynch's house in Hakipuu then were transported over to Pupukea. Larry and Tom were able to drive us in their 4x4s all the way up the Pupukea dirt road to the KST trailhead, saving us 3 miles and an hour of road walking. Mahalo nui to them and Bill Gorst for the access.
Everyone set off at their own pace. Pack weights ranged from mid-50s (Justin, Ken, Ralph) to mid-20s (me). Hiking light is a choice I've made after some painful experiences hefting heavy loads. Learn and live.
The trail was relatively clear and only moderately muddy. Significant points included the Koolau lookout, Pupukea summit, and the Malaekahana and Laie trail termini. Just past Laie, I had a face-to-face encounter with a (sick?) pig. I rounded a turn and saw what I thought was a dead pua'a. It suddenly sprung to life, commenced a stare-down, and then advanced toward me. I crashed backwards off the trail in a hasty backpedal while the three wahines safely behind me just giggled. I was the butt of jokes at dinner that night.
Our campsite at Kawailoa was once occupied by a cabin, but now only a single plank remains. We set up nine tents and fashioned a lookout on the pu'u to watch a beautiful sunset and stay out of the wind.
Day 2: Sunday (5/27)
Day 2 was a rough one. We woke up cold and damp. Dave and I were the first to depart, and as we rounded the bend, I bellowed "Poamoho!" to the group—a bit of quasi-pseudo inspirational dogma from my days as a football coach.
Then we mushed. Mud was the operative term: brown, putrid, and boot-sucking. Trying to avoid mudholes on the KST is futile; the best tactic is to submit to it. By day's end, we were coated in muck from toe to crotch.
Landmarks included the old Kahuku cabin site and a beautiful windswept section overlooking upper Kaipapau Gulch. Near the Peahinaia junction, we ran into two young backpackers shouldering big packs. They were looking for cabins that didn't exist and hoped to reach Laie by nightfall. I warned them it wasn't possible with the remaining daylight; I hope they're okay.
We reached the Poamoho Cabin after a final muddy half-mile slog. Although spartan, the cabin brought relief from the mud. All nine of us spent the night inside. I snagged a bunk, not feeling particularly chivalrous after the day's hike, but I did congratulate Georgina for enduring the toughest part of the KST with a pack 10 lbs heavier than mine.
Day 3: Monday (5/28)
Day 3 was the shortest, easiest, and most scenic. Most of the trail was on the windward side, offering cool breezes and superb views of the lush, remote massiveness of Kahana below us. We could pick out peaks like Kila, Ohulehule, and Manamana.
We completed the ~2-mile leg to the Schofield terminus and then descended Waikane, which was in fine shape. At the bottom, many took a refreshing plunge in the water flume. On the dirt road back, I had one final textbook encounter with a huge black sow and her two keiki—this time, they scampered off as they should.

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