Oh My God! ridge

A handful of us gathered at the end of Kala'au Place in Kuliouou Valley
this morning with the goal of creating a new route to the crest of the
valley's middle ridge.  Though Wing established a new MR route recently,
for reasons I won't go into, another one was being sought.  To summarize
what happened, yup, we all made it up to the crest of the MR.  And after
lunch, we made our way back to the valley by way of yet another route
makai of the one we went up.  What did all this accomplish?  Really, I'm
not sure, other than I, for one, was the glad recipient of a really nice
hill-climbing workout.   What anyone does with the new routes we did I
leave that to them.

Okay, so who showed up?  Mabel, Jay, Georgina, Connie, Gordon, Peter, Wil,
Tom, myself, and a wahine I'll call gung-ho-first-timer (or GHFT, for
short). I think her name was Jan or Joan, but my recollection is hazy.
Anyway, who didn't show up was one of GHFT's teenage sons, much to the
chagrin of Georgina, who I think came out today more for the prospect of
meeting said son rather than hiking.  But I might be wrong, and Georgina,
as she is wont to do, will surely correct me if I am.

About 8:15, we began hiking.  Embraced by sultry humidity, we ambled up
the shaded valley trail and a few minutes mauka of the junction with the
ridge trail, we headed on a trail to the left.  A ribbon marked the spot
and the left-heading path went through laua'e ferns, scattered guava and
christmasberry trees.  Very soon, the trail crossed a dry Kuliouou Stream
at a rocky section that created a natural bridge.  On the far bank was a
broad slope under large ironwood trees.  The ironwoods created a clear
understory and after a brief climb, we came upon a level clearing with a
fire pit and campsite.  Broken bottles littered the pit and on the ground
in the surrounding area I found "bullets" from paint ball guns, indicating
that enthusiasts of this pastime frequented the area for their battles.

The open slope under the ironwoods continued for a few minutes above the
campsite; then we ascended through the guava zone, which required bobbing,
weaving, and chopping (the latter I did little of but my companions were
much more diligent).  The angle of ascent was generally gentle.  The ridge
did steepen, but that would be a bit later.  On the way up, at at least
two points we came upon well-trodden pig trails that contoured across the
line we were climbing.  Having an inkling that these contours would likely
not net any fruitful way to ascend to the crest, I ignored them and
continued straight-up climbing.  Peter climbed right behind me for a good
ways but stopped to explore one of the pig trails.  To my surprise, GHFT
moved right onto my heels and stayed with me all the way to the ridgetop.

As I indicated earlier, the final segment of the ridge became quite steep,
requiring hand-over-hand upper body clambering.  Also in the decisive
segment, we came upon several rockfaces but were able to exploit
weaknesses in these, to borrow an expression Wing is fond of.  Once at the
ridgetop, GHFT and I rested for a few minutes.  I  then suggested we try
to clear a useable trail through the final steep guava section since the
concluding "trail" we had taken was handhold-deprived and generally
avoided the worst of the guava.  She agreed.

So back down we headed, hacking away at the guava. From time to time, I
whooped out to the others below.  Return whoops indicated my ascending
colleagues were within 100 meters.  While working downward, I came upon
Jay, Georgina, and Peter.  Seeing them, GHFT and I reversed fields and
scrambled back up to the top, with J, G, and P right behind us.  Several
minutes later, Tom topped out, then in rapid succession Mabel, then
Connie, then Gordon.  Upon reaching the ridgetop clearing, an exasperated
Mabel exclaimed, "Oh, my god," hence the christened name of this ridge.

To provide some perspective, the topping out point of Ohmygod Ridge is
just mauka of the uppermost ironwood grove on the middle ridge and is
clearly visible from the Kuliouou trailhead at the end of Kalaau Place.
Take a look the next time you're there.  From that vantage point, the
final section looks ridiculously steep, and, now having done it, we can
report that indeed it is.  Hey, but we all made it, including Mama Mabel,
all seventy-plus years of her.

After we were all together, we set off makai on the middle ridge.  Since
it was still early (10:30), Jay suggested we hike the gently graded
contour trail route over to Kuliouou's west ridge and, with no nays heard
from among us, we did just that.  The junction with the contour trail was
a few minutes makai of the apex of Ohmygod Ridge, and in about ten minutes
we were over on the west ridge settling down under an ironwood tree for
lunch.  From our lunchspot, we had an unhindered view of Kulepeamoa Ridge
as well as Kupaua Valley, the basin that sits between K-West and
Kulepeamoa.

After lunch, we backtracked to the middle ridge, then continued makai,
with the goal of finding yet another route back to Kuliouou Valley.
Several minutes down the middle ridge, we found a promising spot by the
ironwood grove just mauka of Wing's middle ridge access trail.  Spotting a
potential line, Tom and I headed down on the mauka side of the grove while
the others, with Jay, Peter, & Wil as the ramrods, began descending near
the grove's center.  Regardless of where we began, we all arrived
generally in the same place: next to the Board of Water Supply pumping
station that one can get to by following the chained-off paved road at the
end of Kala'au Place.  We had to negotiate several rockfaces en route, but
all had weaknesses (wave to La Wingo) and were surmounted with little
difficulty.  In addition to the rockfaces, our route was dry, dusty and
populated by ulei, guava, and koa haole.  Near the pumping station, I
poked around in the dry streambed and came upon two pig carcasses hanging
in trees.  I reported the discovery to the others via walkie-talkie, and
Tom, in reply, said, "You always seem to find the pigs."

We all were back at Kala'au by 12:30 and we enjoyed part of our 4th of
July partaking of snacks and soft drinks there, while we watched hikers
coming and going on their way to the Kuliouou State trail.  Speaking of
the Fourth, I hope everyone is having a good one.  If nothing else, my
hiking companions and I had an interesting time on part of ours.

--dkt

Olympus to Makapuu

Man Friday rendition of Olympus-Makapuu trample

On Saturday June 23rd Man Friday had the honor and privilege to
participate in the HTMC Super hike XIII.  Although Man Friday had
previously notified the HTMC of his plans to take the summer off to
spend QT with his soon to be 7 year old son, the lure of this adventure
was just too much to pass up.  What sewed it up was a chance encounter
with HTMC super super hiker Richard Fernandez.  Man Friday had coached
his son (the maya prince) up the Tom-tom trail and while resting at the
summit Richard came trampling by and invited Man Friday to participate
in XIII.  Man Friday has difficulty in turning down almost any request
initiated from HTMC or the members so an email was dispatched to Dayle
Turner, (hike coordinator) requesting his name be added to the roster.

The Hike:

A most gracious offer was extended to Man Friday for transport to the hike
rendezvous by Dayle alias (Koolau bear).  Man Friday was touched by the
HTMC VP's offer but declined as he believed he would need to jog the 3
miles to the Makapuu lookout to get warmed up for the hike.  As it turned
out Man Friday was intercepted en route Saturday morning by HTMC
corresponding sexy Ralph Valentino. Man Friday's comment to Ralph after
accepting transport was, "cant a guy get a little work out in before going
for a stroll on the Koolaus?".  Thus after only 2 miles of jogging with a
25lb pack, Man Friday was whisked away to the rendezvous spot.

Familiar faces were present at the lookout.  Ralph and Justin would offer
transport to St. Louis heights.  Super super hikers Dave Waller and
Richard Fernandez arrived, as did Dayle, Thea and Mr. Hiroshi Sakae.  Mr.
Sakae would prove at the end of the day that running marathons is a good
training aid to hiking the Koolaus!  That was it, 6 members to attempt
the trample and Dayle mentioning 5 members dropping out (no names given).
Man Friday was a little disappointed in the attrition and was even hoping
for a surprise arrival from Paka, to no avail. No doubt Steve Browns
wedding had an effect on actual hiker numbers, nonetheless we all wish
him and his new wife well.

Dayle gave the hikers a brief synopsis of what was to be expected along
the trail and throughout the day.  Mr. Sakae's eyebrows raised on hearing
we would be on the trail between 9 and 10 hours.  Man Friday was also
miffed as to the amount of time it would require to complete the traverse.
Nonetheless the hikers seemed in good spirits and game for the challenge
ahead of them.

During the transport to the trailhead Man Friday overheard Justin
conversing with Thea as to his dislike of the Waahila trail.  Justin
pointed out the trail can be very slippery at times, with all the rocks
and boulders one must negotiate.  How prophetic his words would be.

The group arrived at the park and final farewells and thank yous were
exchanged.  Dayle gave final instructions and noted that water caches were
in place on the summit.  The group was advised to drink plenty of liquid
during the hike.  At 7:47am the hikers began their long day hike.

Man Friday immediately assumed the lead position and set the pace.  Dayle
informed the group it would be nice to make the summit by 9:00 am and Man
Friday accepted the day's first small challenge.  Also prior experience
with LONG day hikes has given Man Friday important knowledge as to what
can and cannot be done with the body.  As the saying goes, "man's got to
know his limitations".  Man Friday had no intention of spending 10 hours
on the trail, he would either complete the hike in timely fashion or crash
and burn!  Accessing the other hiker capabilities Man Friday felt
confident the hike was doable in less than 9 hours.  A steady pace with a
slight "hurry up attitude" would no doubt get the group to Makapuu lookout
before 5:00pm.  No complaints were signaled by Dayle as to the pace being
set, although he did say, "Hope we can keep it up the whole day!"

On the way up the Waahila trail Dayle entertained the group with a story
from the past of a couple of hikers he came along enthralled in the height
of lust directly on the trail!  He pointed out the exact spot on the
trail, and everyone got a chuckle out of the story and the mood was set
for the remainder of the hike.  Man Friday had to admire the hike
coordinator's timing at telling the tale, as it could not have come at a
better time. The group was off and hiking at a good clip, the day would
be long and difficult at times, but Dayle's tale put everything into
perspective, this adventure above all would be fun, enjoyable,
challenging to be sure, but an outright good experience.   And indeed we
did have fun and all enjoyed the adventure regardless of the pain and
fatigue we all endured!

Once the group reached the junction towards the summit Man Friday stepped
up the pace.  Super hikers Richard and Dave where a few minutes behind,
Mr. Sakae, Dayle and Thea brought up the rear guard.  As Man Friday
negotiated a descent off the top of a boulder his right foot slipped out
from underneath him and crashing down he went.  His right forearm absorbed
the full weight of his body and 25lb pack.   It was a painful fall and Man
Friday began seeing stars but his feet kept moving he was too embarrassed
to slow down.  Man Friday quickly recovered and kept moving up the trail
even though the pain from his arm was acute!  A contusion was beginning to
appear on the forearm but Man Friday focused his thoughts on the trail
and pace being set.  He also recalled Justin's conversation with Thea, and
thought to himself, Justin was right!  For the remainder of the ascent to
Olympus Man Friday would have to shrug off the pain and numbness in his
right forearm.

Man Friday continued to push hard and finally stopped for a water break at
the flat spot just before the final step ascent to the summit.  Liquid
replenishment was gladly slurped down and gators were donned as the
vegetation was beginning to be noticeable to the bare legs.  The others
arrived within a couple of minutes and all gratefully hydrated at the
break spot.  Dayle mentioned the group should probably eat and drink while
on the move, at which the others just laughed.  Super hiker Richard took
the lead and powered the group up the 1/8 of a mile or so to the summit.
Before taking the ramrod Richard asked Man Friday, "Why are you hiking so
fast?". At which Man Friday replied, "Dayle said he wanted us on the
summit by  9:00 am!"  Well the group made the summit around 9:00am in
about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  That was the easy part now the real hike
would begin.

With the initial pace set Man Friday took the ramrod again and had full
intention on keeping it up.  The other hikers expressed no complaints as
Man Friday blazed through the vegetation opening up the previous swath.
Man Friday was surprised that Dayle had not assumed the ramrod slot.
Dayle usually enjoys plowing his way through vegetation and more
challenging terrain.  But as hike coordinator perhaps he felt that a
middle or near sweep position was more appropriate today, he never led on.

Between Olympus and Kaau was overgrown but fortunately not muddy.  Man
Friday maintained a steady pace and was thanked by gatorless Richard (who
wore shorts) for the good job he was doing opening up the swath.  As the
group approached more open terrain Richard would grab the ramrod and
charge every Puu on route.  Upon approaching the hill or knoll he would
cry out, "banzai", or "attack".  The super hiker would then charge up the
hill like a man possessed and leave the rest of the group 10 to 15 yards
behind.  In the spirit of things the group also "attacked" the puus and
laughter broke out over Richard's antics.  The laughter would soon turn to
panting as lungs gasped for oxygen on the difficult ascents.  Upon
reaching the apexes Richard would take a short break and Man Friday would
pass by and continue the pace.  Soon all hikers would be taking breaks at
the top of almost every puu conquered!!

The group basically stayed together throughout the day with Man Friday and
Richard swapping the ramrod.  Richard giving way to the more vegetated
areas and often times expressing his desires to napalm or agent orange
all vegetation on all trails!  Thea pulled up the rear the entire morning
and Man Friday began to wonder if she was all right.  Actually she had the
best strategy of all the hikers: let the men create a nice swath so her
hike experience could be less taxing and more enjoyable.  She changed her
strategy after lunch and stayed tight with the pack the remainder of the
day, one strong wahine that hiker.  Thea is probably the strongest wahine
hiker in the entire club if not one of the strongest hikers period!  Hats
off to her for her endurance and determination to chalk up another super
hike.

We decided to lunch at Kuliouou West summit about 11:55 am?  Strategy was
discussed as all were looking forward to completing the hike by 4:00pm?
That would still give the group time to crash Steve Brown's wedding
reception!  As it was the group was 40 minutes ahead of schedule.  It
should be noted the weather was most agreeable on this day, with high
cloud cover (no sun) and breezy sometimes-blustery trade winds.   Dayle
said it was possible to make an out by 4:00pm but doubtful as after 6
hours the body would certainly make it known whether another 2 to 3 hours
was available.  Dayle also mentioned we should all be thankful for the
weather up to this point, as no doubt the Tom-Tom stretch to Makapuu
would certainly be cloudless!

Lunch break concluded at approximately 12:25 with Richard charging off
into the lead and Man Friday picking up the rear.  Richard carried the
pace the short distance to Kuliouou where two caches of liquid where
retrieved.  The group did not linger in the area long as the strong gust
of wind pelted the hikers with sand from the well-eroded area.  The
Kuliouou area from middle ridge to the lookout is predominantly eroded and
when the trades are blowing HARD the poor hiker feels as if he/she is
being sandblasted on the way through.  Thank goodness Richard maintained
the hurried up pace through the area as more than a few hikers were seen
rubbing the sand out of their eyes!

Between Kuliouou and Mariners Ridge can become confusing at times.
Special mahalos to Justin for laying out markers at key points to help the
group stay on the wind/sand swept trail.  Once past the Kuliouou sand
blasting the group's pace began to fall off due to fatigue.  For the next
40 minutes or so the lead was exchanged as all up front basically lost the
trail and were forced to the rear of the pack as a sort of penalty.

Man Friday eventually took the ramrod minutes before reaching Mariners
ridge and attempted to pick up the pace on the final ascent to the
terminus.  The group was very tight as all made the final hard climb to
the terminus within a few minutes of each other.  The trekkers gladly took
a liquid break and Dayle continue southeast along the trail to retrieve
his water cache just past the ironwoods.  Man Friday offered MO-JO to the
entire group, at which Richard said, "I'll take anything right now if it
will get me to the end of the hike."  All but Dave and Dayle sampled the
mo-jo supplement.  Before heading down the trail Dayle informed the group
they were 50 minutes ahead of schedule.  Hearing the good news the group
unconsciously extended the break a little longer than necessary as no one
was making a move to continue.  During the break Richard asked, "Where is
Dayle and how come he has not come back?"  Man Friday broke out into
laughter at hearing the question and responded, "A seasoned KST veteran
such as Dayle will never hike the same ground twice in one day."
Everyone laughed at the comment but still no one made a motion to
continue the hike.  During the break Mr. Sakae informed Man Friday he was
getting tired and this hike was too long.  Man Friday informed him he
believed they were only about 3 hours away from the autos.

Dave saddled up as if intending to continue and with that signal all the
trekkers jumped to their feet and headed on down the trail.  Dayle was
overtaken within a few minutes as he was in the process of replenishing
his water reserves from his cache.  Man Friday told Dayle about Richard's
question at break at which he laughed and said, "You don't hike the same
ground twice."  Another round of laughter to lift the spirits of the
weary group, and they would need it soon as the sun was just about
finished baking off the remaining cloud cover.

Man Friday led the charge down the Puu and began the ascent on the next
rise.  During the ascent his left quadricep began to spasm/contract, a
sign of dehydration!  Man Friday's pace dropped off considerably and at
the next ascent informed Dayle and Thea of his condition.  Dayle
mentioned he was getting leg muscle spasms as well and Richard was no
longer charging the Puus.  Fatigue and dehydration was beginning to set
in plus as Dayle predicted this stretch of the hike would put the
trekkers under the hot sun's microscope, indeed they were.

The group took a break just before the cable descent to Tom-Tom.  Man
Friday downed a litre of water and consumed a protein bar.  Mr. Sakae
lay sprawled out as if he was taking a suntan or a nap!  What a
sandbagger, he would turn out to be the strongest finisher!  Dave did not
say much; never does but man can the super hiker hike.  It does not matter
how fast you go or how hard you hike, if you hike with Dave he is always
like a shadow.  You turn around and he is always there.  Truly a super
hiker and gentlemen as Man Friday has never heard him utter one complaint.
Super hikes were invented for guys like this.

As we sat in the shade of the iron woods bogus thoughts entered Man
Friday's mind to sneak down Tom-Tom and return to the comforts of his cell
at the HTMC clubhouse.  Man Friday expressed this desire to Thea, who
jokingly agreed to the plan.  On hearing of the wimpy bail out plan Dayle
chimed in and said, "Yes an out at Tom-Tom would make it a good day, but
one would miss out on the accomplishment of completing THIS HIKE."  Upon
hearing Dayle's rebuke to Man Friday, Richard arose and gingerly began the
cable section descent.

Downhill and level section hiking had little effect on the muscle spasms
Man Friday was experiencing but the rugged up hill climbs were outright
painful.  Nonetheless on reaching Tom-Tom Man Friday took the lead and
powered the trekkers to the next rise.  The ascent is not that steep but
after 6 hours of solid hiking and the hot sun beating down on one's head
it felt like hiking the steepest part of the Haiku stairs!  Upon
completing the ascent Man Friday collapsed in the ironwood grove and all
other hikers took a break as well.  When Dayle arrived he said, "I
thought we were going to take our next break at the next ironwoods?"  No
one else complained about taking another break so soon at which Richard
offered Man Friday a gatorade and gratefully gulped down!  The soft iron
wood needles felt good to lay in but indeed the group had to get a move
on.  Dayle made the motion to continue and the group stayed tight up to
the Nike station.  Once at the Nike station wimpy thoughts were expressed
to take the road all the way out, but dismissed without prejudice!

Once past the Nike station Man Friday was determined not to take another
break until the group reached the Makapuu lookout.  With Richard again
taking the lead the group moved towards its goal at a more subdued pace.
After making another difficult ascent to an unknown/named Puu Richard and
company took another H2O break.  Man Friday continued southeast and began
the last major descent.  Almost to the bottom of the descent and with no
one in site Man Friday began to worry if something had gone wrong with the
group.  Man Friday halted and was able to make radio contact with Dayle,
who informed him all was ok and that the trekkers where indeed just
resting.  Good news.

After conversing with Dayle Man Friday picked up his pace and continued
towards the lookout. The sun was hot, but the brisk trade winds made it
bearable, as the final section of the trek is much like a desert.  Not
only does the hiker have to deal with the hot sun, but the actual ground
and boulders also emit heat and the body begins to burn up if liquid
consumption is neglected.

The final ascent was quite laborious for Man Friday as the spasms
manifested once again.  On the way up Man Friday turned northwest and
observed the group of trekkers heading his way in good form.  Mr. Sakae,
Dave and Thea all heading his way and no doubt if they could maintain
their pace would meet up with Man Friday for the final walk down the
Pali. Mr. Sakae was actually scorching the trail and Man Friday figured
he would overpass him by the time he reached the Puu with the three
poles.

On reaching the Puu with the 3 poles Man Friday took a much needed water
break.  He drank another litre of water and consumed the remainder of a
protein bar.  While resting on a warm boulder with his thigh pressed tight
against it to keep his leg warm, Man Friday waited for the arrival of Mr.
Sakae.  Within minutes the mighty marathoner arrived, sat down and drank
some of his own H2O.  Man Friday was amazed at Mr. Sakae, the guy looked
like he was not sweating, as a matter of fact the guy looked like he just
started the hike!  Man Friday challenged Mr. Sakae to make an out by
4:30pm.  Mr. Sakae responded, "4:45".  Man Friday radioed Dayle and told
him that him and Mr. Sakae would be attempting to out at 4:30 and off they
went.

Mr. Sakae set a brisk pace with Man Friday close behind.  Funny when
confronted with a challenge all thoughts of the leg spasms and forearm
contusion dissolved from Man Fridays mind, interesting.  At 4:19 Man Friday
informed Mr. Sakae they had 11 minutes to make their goal.  On hearing the
news Mr. Sakae broke out into a jog/run.  Man Friday stayed in hot pursuit
and the two trekkers blasted down the rocky trail with Man Friday calling
out time left and advising on appropriate descent route.  At 4:24pm Mr.
Sakae reached Kam highway with Man Friday a few seconds behind.  They both
crossed the road together and shook hands by the automobiles at Makapuu
lookout.

Dave and Thea arrived within 10 minutes and Dayle was a few minutes behind
them.  Mr. Sakae inquired into the whereabouts of Richard and Dayle
informed the group he was right behind but having foot difficulties.
Within a few minutes Richard came into view limping down the final descent
supported by a kiawe branch!  He joined the group at the rendezvous spot
at 4:40pm.  All trekkers congratulated each other and all where happy to
have completed the hike under schedule by 1 hour and 20 minutes!

In conclusion Man Friday would like to thank Dayle Turner for his
organizational skill and creative genius in coming up with new and
adventurous hikes which push the limits of the HTMCers.  Special thanks to
Richard "banzai" Fernandez for requesting Man Friday's participation in
the event and for his gung ho attitude through out the hike.  Thanks also
to iron man Dave, Thea and Mr. Sakae for being part of a team that
motivated and supported each other to complete the trek and make it
enjoyable. Special thanks to God the almighty for allowing us to partake
and enjoy his creation and for giving us the spirit and heart to complete
the adventure safely.

Man Friday

Olympus to Makapuu

Five of us did the club hike today.  Hike start time: 7:40 a.m. at Waahila
trailhead.  Hike end time: 4:40 p.m. at Makapuu Lookout--9 hours on the
trail. It was an ideal day for this hike, with a cloudless summit all the
way, high clouds to block the sun, and brisk trades to keep us cool.  God
was smiling upon us.

The hike up Waahila was uneventful and we summited at 9:00.  We were then
eastbound on the crest, passing a parade of summits--Kaau Crater, Lanipo,
Waialae Nui, Wiliwilinui, Wailupe, Hawaii Loa, Kulepeamoa, and then
Kuliouou West.  The trail along the summit was generally good, especially
the segments the club hikes and maintains.  The most brushy sections were
between Olympus and Kaau and between Kulepeamoa and K-West.  We reached
the latter at noon and ate lunch there.  I made walkie-talkie contact
with Ken Suzuki, who was leading a hike for the Nature Center in
Maunawili.

I had suggested that folks leave water caches at either Kuliouou or
Mariner's Ridge, and three of us did just that, so we ended up with close
to 4 supplemental gallons to replenish our H20 supplies along the way.
And this water proved very helpful to us, especially as the long day wore
on.

To my surprise, the only other hikers we saw on this beautiful day were
some folks at a distance heading down the Kuliouou state trail.
Otherwise, we saw no one else during the hike.

The hikers:  Hiroshi Sakae, Man Friday (who didn't want his real name
used), Dave Waller, Richard Fernandez, Dayle Turner.

Comments: Five folks, for various reasons, had to withdraw prior to
today's hike.  I hope they, and other interested hikers, organize
a group to complete this hike someday.  To me, the hike, in a much lesser
degree, is akin to thru-hiking the Appalachian or Pacific Crest Trails.
Hiking it section by section is an accomplishment, but hiking it in one
shot is a tough but doable challenge. I'll gladly offer information and
logistical support for anyone who gives this a shot, just don't ask me to
do it with you.  One time is enough.  :-)  One pitfall of today's hike is
that it finished at a time that would not allow any of us to attend the
wedding of HTMC folks Steve Brown and Lin Black.  Congratulations and best
wishes to them nonetheless.

Kudos: Ralph Valentino and Justin Ohara for shuttling us to Waahila in the
morning. Kirby Young, whose excellent OHE write-up of this hike helped
provide a frame of reference for us.  The HTMC trail crew, for all the
work done on sections of trail along the summit.  Dick Cowan, for the
solid cable on the cliff section just before TomTom.  Much mahalo to these
folks.

For those who want to take a look, Kirby's write-up is at

 http://www.geocities.com/oheposts/5-25c.html

Go HTMC!

--dkt

Malaekahana ridge, Koolau summit trail, Kahuku trail

A bunch of us did a big loop today.  The whole thing had to be at least 12 miles; some think it could have been as much as 15.  Whatever it was, we all had a sweaty, muddy workout.  Ken Suzuki even said the plants along the Kahuku Trail are better compared to sister ridges, Laie and Malaekahana.  So go now, plant lovers!

The hike started at the Laie ballpark on Poohaili Street.  The first phase was a romp along a dirt road that passed the Laie trailhead and crossed a (dry) stream. There are several side roads on the left and right leading to farms.  One concern along this stretch is harassment by dogs.  A couple barked and growled as we went by in the a.m. but no dog hassles took place in the p.m., at least when I went by.

Not long after the stream crossing, we headed mauka on another dirt road. This road eventually becomes eroded and rutted and then transitions into the Malaekahana Trail, which we headed up. About an hour from the cars, we passed the junction with the trail heading down to Malaekahana Stream and continued mauka up the ridge.  The trail beyond the junction was overgrown but still passable.

Eventually, the ridge trail angles left, goes over several humps, and arrives at a junction at a low saddle, now very well ribboned. This is about 2 to 3 hours from the cars, depending how fast one goes. It was there we left the ridge trail (heading right) to begin a segment we called "The Shortcut to the KST," a longtime brain-child of Bill Gorst. This route drops down to a little stream, passes some paperbark trees, winds around some low ridges and ravines, crosses little streams at least twice more, and eventually gains the summit trail about a half mile (as
the mynah flies) north of the KST/Malaekahana junction.  It takes about
half an hour.

Once on the KST, our loop headed right (north) toward the Pupukea summit hilltop, where the terminus of the Kahuku trail resides.  The KST segment was muddy in many places (to be expected) and about 2/3rds was well-cleared.  Count on at least an hour to get this part done.

At the base of the Pupukea summit hilltop is a signed junction. Today's correct choice was to head up to the right (heading straight ahead would take one around the hilltop and on to Pupukea). Near the top of the hill was another signed junction.  This is where the Kahuku trail begins/ends.

Getting back to the cars from this location will take approx 3-4 hours.  We did it by heading down the Kahuku trail, which is a typical uluhe-ohia ridge higher up.  This part is very obvious and marked well. After the uluhe abates, the trail transitions into the guava zone.  The corridor thru the guava is generally distinct and well-marked when the way becomes less clear.  After the guava zone, the trail becomes drier, more eroded, and populated by vegetation like ironwoods, some pines, and christmas berry, with some guava thrown in to keep things from
getting too easy/pleasant.

About 90 minutes from the summit, there is a junction with what appears to
be an old jeep road.  We went right at that point, leaving the Kahuku trail, which continues straight down the ridge, very broad at this point.  The old road arrives at another junction in a forest of ironwoods.  The correct way at that point is to head right to begin descending to Malaekahana Stream.  Ribbons mark the way, which eventually gets steep and proceeds down a swath thru uluhe, then a large eroded
patch, and then puts one in the side fork of the (dry) stream.  The side
fork quickly leads to a junction with the main (babbling) stream.  At that
point, there is ribboned trail that gets the old ticker a-pumping by
climbing steeply to the ridgetop of the south side of Malaekahana Stream.

Once the ridgetop is gained, the trail heads mauka for a short spell, then
swings to the left thru a forest of guava and ironwoods. This area is well
marked.  The trail reaches a barbed-wire fenceline, which is followed for
a bit and then ducked under at a ribboned point.  A road covered
with horse manure heads makai to mauka (head makai).  Heading as such will
lead to a large antenna tower.  Near the tower is an indistinct (but
ribboned well today) path that heads to the right.  This path leads to a
gate and the start/end of a dirt road.  Go thru the gate (make sure to
secure the gate with the attached rope) and proceed down the road.

This road will lead to a junction with the dirt road leading to
Malaekahana that was walked on earlier.  The conclusion of the hike is the
dirt road amble back to the Laie ballpark.

Some notes about today's hike:

Several folks ran out of water en route.  This is at least a three-liter
hike, especially in the summer months.

Walkie-talkies were useful in helping us keep track of who was where.  For
those who don't have a walkie-talkie, consider purchasing one (you
listening, Wing?).

After the hike, Mabel was presented with the donated monies to help her
with the sizable towing fee she had to pay after the Schofield/East Range
mishap. Much thanks to all who contributed to the fund.

Roll-call: Mabel Kekina, Bill Gorst, Connie & Gordon Muschek, Jay Feldman,
Nathan Yuen, Peter Kempf, Pat Enomoto, Jim Wilburn, Art Isbell, Laura
Owens, Thea Ferentinos, Karen Hashimoto, Mike Lindstrom, Deetsie Chave,
Ken Suzuki, Carole K. Moon, June Miyasato, Ralph Valentino, Steve Becker,
Lynne Masuyama, Mike Algiers, Dayle Turner.

Next week Sunday's TM: Pauoa Woods.  Meet at 8 a.m. up on Tantalus near
the ewa point of the the Manoa Cliff Trail (nka Kalawahine Trail).

--dkt

Koolau summit trail Pupukea to Waikane

There's a saying that only fools rush in where angels fear to tread.
What does this have to do with the following account?  Read on and you'll
hopefully see the connection.

Nine of us took the plunge into the mud of the Oahu mountains this
weekend, hiking from Pupukea to Waikane via the Koolau Summit Trail.  We
spent two nights out, the first at the Kawailoa terminus and the second at
the Poamoho Cabin.  Participants were Ken, Ralph (co-coordinators),
Carole, June, Thea, Georgina, Dave, Justin, and I.  Carole was doing the
KST trip for the seventh (and last) time, she says.  Georgina,
just a teenager, was among a handful of first-time KST backpackers.

Day 1 was Saturday (5/26).  We rendezvoused at Kay Lynch's house in
Hakipuu then were transported over to Pupukea by Tom, Stuart, Larry, and
Kris.  Larry and Tom were able to drive us in their 4x4s all the way up
the Pupukea dirt road to the KST trailhead, saving us 3 miles and an hour
of road walking. Mahalo nui for their efforts and to Bill Gorst for
getting us access to the dirt road beyond the Boy Scout camp.

Everyone set off at their own pace, which was helped or hindered by the
loads carried.  Pack weights ranged from mid-50s (Justin, Ken, Ralph),
to the 30s (all the wahines), to mid-20s (me).  I had intended
to keep my pack under 20 lbs (food and water included) and was
disappointed when it weighed in at 26.  Hiking light is a choice I've
made after some painful experiences hefting heavy loads, including
an ascent of Mauna Loa when I lugged 3 gallons of water and a bunch of
other foolish, bulky crap.  Learn and live.

Anyway, we moved along without much trouble on day 1 since the trail was
relatively clear (due to HTMC TM efforts) and only moderately muddy--the
big mud tango coming on day 2. Significant points along the way were the
junction to the Koolau lookout (where Tom and Stuart found the old Kahuku
trail), the junction with the trail to benchmarked Pupukea summit, the
sign-marked Malaekahana trail terminus and the Laie trail terminus.

A minute after the Laie junction, I had a face-to-face encounter with a
(sick?) pig. I rounded a turn in the trail and saw what I thought was a
dead pua'a on the footpath.  Just as I was about to turn to Carole, June,
and Georgina to tell them about the deceased porker, said porker sprung
to life and commenced a stare-down.  I yelled and struck my hiking pole
on the trail in an attempt to scare off the pig, but scare it did not.
It, in fact, advanced toward me, which pigs with room to flee typically
don't do (and this pig had plenty of room to flee).  Seeing this, I
commenced a quick, hasty backpedal and ended up crashing backwards
off the trail, now defenseless against the advancing foe. The three
wahines, all a safe distance away, just giggled and cackled at my
situation.  The good news was that the pig did not attack and burrowed
into the bushes away from me.  The bad news was that I was the butt of
jokes at dinner that night.  The wahines even claimed I screamed as I
fell off the trail.  Poppycock.

Our campsite at Kawailoa was once occupied by a cabin.  Now all that
remains of the structure is a single plank and a lone post.  Tom and
Stuart had hiked up via Laie the weekend before to chop weeds around the
site, to dig a couple of holes for our lua, and to flag the trail leading
to a nearby water source.  They also cleared a good deal of the section
between Laie and the campsite.  Nice job and thanks to those two.

We were able to set up nine tents in and around the site and we also
fashioned a nice lookout on the pu'u overlooking the camp.  After dinner,
we used the lookout as a place to kick back, watch the sunset (nice), talk
story, and stay out of the wind.  Earlier, Dave had hiked across the
swampy area adjacent to our camp to climb a landing pad hilltop with a
panoramic view of the surrounding area.  Nobody else did this, probably
because of the swamp and because misty, cloudy conditions would have
hampered views.

The wind was a bit of a nuisance during the night, not only because of
the noise it created by flapping rainflys but also for the cold
it sent into our bones as we tried to sleep.  It also rained at
several points during the night but never anything hard or prolonged.

Day 2 (Sunday, 5/27) was a rough one and began around 6 a.m. Around then,
someone asked Georgina how she had slept during the night

"Horribly," she said.  "I was so cold," a statement we'd hear from her
a bunch more times during the trip.

A few others admitted to being cold and no one, in fact, professed to
sleeping well, which wasn't surprising given the nippy, damp night we'd
had.  As we ate breakfast, then broke down our tents then packed our gear,
the mood was somber and introspective.  Everyone knew we'd have a tough
string of hours ahead of us.

Dave and I were the first to pack up and depart.  Just before we hiked
around a bend in the trail and out of sight of the others, I raised my
right fist overhead, turned to whoever was looking, and bellowed,
"Poamoho!"  Bear in mind I was once a football coach, so I'll never lack
for quasi-pseudo inspirational dogma.

And then we mushed on, with mush being the operative term. We were
constantly in mud, the brown, putrid, boot-sucking kind.  Trying to avoid
mudholes on the KST is futile and those foolhardy to try it end up
expending more energy, battling impenetrable vegetation, and encountering
just more mud.  So the best tactic is to submit to it and just slosh
right on through.  By day's end, we were coated in muck from toe to
crotch.  Yum.

Though never easy, day 2 was made better by several days of trail work
done by Roger in the preceding couple of weekends and also the new
exclosure fenceline installed by Army Environmental, with an assist by
HTMC members, among others.  Good job to all.

Day 2 landmarks included the old Kahuku cabin site (about an hour
from Kawailoa), a beautiful windswept windward section overlooking upper
Kaipapau Gulch, and the Castle junction, where Dave, Thea, Justin, and I
ate lunch and rested. We saw plenty of signs of pigs but never encountered
any. About 30 minutes beyond Castle, we came upon the exclosure
fenceline, which generally follows the KST.  A corridor on both sides of
the fence has been cleared, making for unimpeded, less muddy hiking.
Partway along the fenceline we saw a quonset hut-like structure a
quarter-mile to our right (west).  We also noticed a silhouette next to
the structure.  Was it a person?  Movement confirmed it was.  We later
found out the person was actually two people who had dayhiked over from
Poamoho and the structure was used by the workers building the exclosure
fence.  An unnamed source told me in the area near the structure are
views of a stream (Helemano or Opaeula?) with waterfalls and a pool "as
large as a football field."

The southern end of the fenceline is at the junction with the Peahinaia
Trail.  The fenceline extends down Peahinaia for a distance and then
crosses a couple of drainages to form the exclosure boundary with the
fenceline along the KST.  Among the folks I was hiking with, I heard no
negative comments about the fence, and thanks to oversight from the HTMC
(including Pat, Stuart, Charlotte, and others), the fence doesn't block or
badly infringe on the summit trail corridor.

About midway between the Peahinaia junction and Poamoho, we ran into two
early-twentyish haole guys shouldering big packs. When I saw them, the
first thought that popped into mind was "Wade Johnson" (for those who
don't know about Johnson, he was a BYUH student who, with a buddy, was
backpacking on the KST in the summer of '95. The buddy was found but
Johnson never was).

The two haole guys said they'd come up Schofield, crossed north along
the KST, passed the Poamoho Cabin, and were looking
for cabins they'd heard about beyond Poamoho.  I told them where we'd
come from and that there were no cabins between Poamoho and Pupukea.
Hearing this, they then said they'd try to reach the summit of Laie by
nightfall.  It was nearing 3 p.m. and with darkness hitting in four
hours, I told them reaching the Laie summit was not possible with the
daylight remaining. This information seemed to deflate their enthusiasm,
but they thanked us nevertheless and continued on.  Strangely, no one in
our group of nine other than Dave, Thea, and I saw these backpackers, so
I'm not sure where they went after we talked to them.  I hope they're
okay.

We had heard that Grant might be hiking up Poamoho to join us for the
final night, so we were eager to find out if he had showed up.  Once at
the Poamoho summit, marked by the Cline Memorial Stone, we made the
five-minute walk down the trail to get water at the stream.  As we
approached, we noticed a large tent in the clearing by the stream.  Was
this Grant's?  If it was, he, or whoever it belonged to, wasn't around it
nor in it.  A mystery to try and figure out.

After acquiring water for the night and morrow, it was off to the Poamoho
Cabin.  On the return trip to the Cline Memorial junction, we met a couple
who belonged to the tent.  They'd been the silhouette makers we'd seen by
the quonset hut structure by the exclosure fenceline and knew about our
backpack trip. They'd even contacted one of the coordinators (Ralph?) to
inquire about the trek.  In the morning, they had set out to hike to the
KST/Castle Trail junction but ended up not  getting that far, opting
instead to explore the fenceline and the quonset hut structure in the
Peahinaia area.  Nice folks.

Getting to the 4-bunk Poamoho cabin required a muddy (what's new?)
half-mile slog south along the KST from the Cline Memorial.  Though
spartan, the cabin brought relief from the mud and weather.  The weather,
by the way, was never bad during the trip.  Though it rained briefly, we
were never poured on.  And though clouds blocked views at times, these
times were brief.  In all, the weather was very cooperative.

All nine of us spent the night in the cabin.  As one of the first
arrivers, I snagged one of the bunks, as did Thea, Dave, and June.  Yes,
I could have given my bunk to Carole or Georgina, but after a long day on
the KST, I wasn't feeling chivalrous.

What I did do, however, was congratulate Georgina for enduring the
toughest part of the KST, and with a pack that was at least 10 lbs more
than mine. No matter how much I chided her for whining about being cold,
she'll always have my respect (though she may have preferred my bunk).

But I digress.

The night passed reasonably well, with one challenge being how to make it
thru with people having to get up at various times to answer nature's
call.  I used an old mountaineer's trick:  piss in a bottle.  Yes, this
may seem gross, unsanitary, yada, yada.  But when in a high mountain bivy
suspended from a cliff 5000 feet up (or in my case, in a cabin with bodies
strewn yon and hither), doing number 1 in a bottle is much easier and
more convenient.  A few key points:  [a] make sure to get it in the
bottle; [b] make sure to cap bottle securely; [c] make sure not to
confuse this bottle with the one you use to sip water from; [d] make sure
not to do #2 in a bottle (which is gross, unsanitary, yada, yada).

Okay, let's move on.

Day 3 was the shortest, easiest, and most scenic.  Just like the morning
before, we were up around 6 a.m., having survived a night sleep noises
(read: snoring) and of dark figures going in and out to use the lua (the
lua being the nearest bush).  Breakfast prep and consumption was
followed by packing up for the final leg.  One of the least pleasant
parts of the trip was having to put on the same smelly, dirty clothes we'd
worn the days prior.  But as someone mentioned, after a couple minutes on
the trail, we wouldn't notice the dampness and stench.  Well, at least
that was the theory.

>From the cabin, almost all of the KST to the Schofield junction was on the
windward-facing side of the mountain, making for cool breezes and pretty
views.  Clouds obscured visibility in the area below Pu'u Pauao, which is
about half an hour from the cabin.  Beyond that, views and hiking were
superb, with the lush, remote massiveness of Kahana sprawled out below
us. While hiking along, many could pick out the Kahana peaks we'd
climbed with the club, including the triumvirate of Kila, Ohulehule, and
Manamana. Since we  set off early, the temps and conditions were moderate,
making for enjoyable hiking.

Moving steadily but leisurely, most completed the ~2-mile leg to the
Schofield terminus in two hours.  Following a rest there, what remained
was a final 20-minute swan song on the KST to the Waikane trail
terminus, and then a descent of Waikane itself, the latter being in fine
shape because of recent maintenance efforts by the club.

Having completed the descent of Waikane, many took the refreshing plunge
in the water flume at the bottom of the trail, and then there was a tramp
on the dirt road back to civilization. On the way down, I came upon a huge
black sow and her two keiki.  Unlike other recent encounters with pua'a,
this one was textbook, with my yell sending the porkers scampering into
the brush.

Tom, Mabel, and Grant helped with posthike transport to Hakipuu where we
left our cars.  And Charlotte dropped by with refreshments.  Relaxing and
reflecting on the trip, we hung out at Kay's front yard to enjoy
refreshments and to clean ourselves up. Among the goodies consumed
were cookies, chocolate cream pie ala Mabel, corn dogs, assorted chips,
watermelon, soft drinks, and beer.

Much thanks to Ken, Ralph, and Grant for coordinating the trip and to all
the others for logistical/people-power support.  The outing went well
because of the efforts of all these folks.

Will any of us ever do the KST trip again? I'd bet that most eventually
will, me included. After all, we saw no sign of angels anywhere we hiked.

Malama pono,

--dkt

Kuliouou, Kuliouou West

Some deranged person posted some fairy-tale, knights-of-the-roundtable
write-up the other day using my name.  Let it be known that I have
discovered and dealt with the culprit swiftly and surely, and he's now in
custody at the funny farm in Kaneohe.

Okay, enuff said about that.

Tomorrow's HTMC hike is Puu o Kona, which the club has often done via a
middle ridge that starts at the end of Papahehi Place in Kuliouou Valley.
As Jay has mentioned recently on OHE, the Papahehi access is now no more
because the owner of the lot where the trailhead was has decided to
build.

Wing, as he's mentioned on the list, has opened up a new route from the
end of Kalaau Place (state trailhead) up to the crest of the middle ridge
in response to the Papahehi trailhead loss.  Today, a handful of us went
back to Kuliouou to do additional work on Wing's trail and we later went
further mauka to open up a contour route from the middle ridge over to
Kuliouou's west ridge.

In contrast to the rainy weather we had on Oahu yesterday, today was a
scorcher.  It was actually a great day for the beach, and when I drove
home after the hike I saw tons of people at Sandy Beach and Makapuu who'd
agree with me.

Showing up today were Jay, John, Gordon, Peter, Evelia, and I.  John will
be working with Ken Suzuki to coordinate tomorrow's hike.  The rest of us
showed up today to lend moral support, to do some work, and to get some
exercise.

We did some rerouting of Wing's trail right away to avoid being in view of
the last house on the left at the end of Kalaau.  The route begins on an
obvious trail on the left about 15 yards from the chain across the road.
After that, it's follow-the-ribbon time through haole koa and then makai
along the bank of a dry, branch-choked Kuliouou Stream.

The trail then crosses the streambed, then climbs steadily thru haole koa,
rocks, scattered cacti, and smidgens of other dryland type brush on the
down-valley side of a spur ridge.  Wing did a nice job of establishing a
line and putting up ribbons.  Today, we did additional chopping and
tossing aside of rocks and dead branches.

About halfway up is a small patch of Formosan koa where we cut a small
trail to the right for a place to sit, rest, and check out the views.
Above the FK patch, the trail stays directly on the crest of the spur
ridge where there is direct exposure to the sun and better exposure to
breezes cascading down the valley. We put in 2.5 hours of work on Wing's
trail on the way up and some additional touch-up work on the way back
down in the afternoon.

Once we cleared to the middle ridge's crest, we headed mauka for five
minutes to an ironwood grove to rest and eat  lunch.  Evelia and Peter had
pushed ahead and we wouldn't see them until later in the afternoon.  So
that left John, Jay, Gordon, and I to eat lunch together. We found
a nice spot alongside the trail that was shaped like a comfortable sofa,
only this one was cushioned by ironwood needles.  Nice breeze, nice
shade, nice lunch.

After lunch, we continued mauka up the middle ridge, passing thru another
larger ironwood grove.  Gordon decided to hang out there and take a nap
while John, Jay, and I continued on up.  Jay wanted to do some clearing
and marking of a contour trail on the left that dropped into the narrow
valley between the middle ridge and Kuliouou's west ridge.  For lack of a
better name, I'll call it Kuliouou Iki (Little Kuliouou).  The contour
trail into Kuliouou Iki is about five minutes upridge of the large
ironwood grove where Gordon stopped to nap.  It's quite a good trail
obviously man-made, cleared fairly well, and descends very gently over
the course of about 250 meters.  It then crosses a streambed and there is
a  steep trail thru guava that climbs out the other side to the crest of
Kuliouou West Ridge.

With such a gentle, well-made trail into the valley, we thought the
steep trail out seemed oudd.  It'd make more sense that whoever built it
would create a similar gentle countour out of the valley's other side.
Well, with some scouting around, we found it and marked and opened it up
quite well.  This is a nice option to the steep trail out of the valley.
I should also mention that Evelia and Peter showed up during this
chopping session.  They'd headed up the west ridge to the summit and then
come back down.

After opening up the contour trail to the west ridge, we backtracked to
the middle ridge, then down to the ironwoods where we roused Gordon, then
down to Wing's trail, then back down to Kalaau.  At the trailhead, Jay and
John shared some sodas with us and we then headed home, me taking the
road around Makapuu, a route I really enjoy driving.

--dkt

Olomana 1st peak makai

Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 18:51:32 -1000
From: Stan Yamada <stanboy50@hotmail.com>
To: turner@hawaii.edu
Subject: Olomana Makai

Howzit:  I was surfin the other day and stumbled over your OHE site and
signed up.  Imagine my chagrin when I come across your story of Olomana
Makai.  I believe it was my trail blazing efforts you found on OM.  I used
to mountain bike regularly there as I live in Enchanted Lake.  My son and I
like to hike a bike up the ridge lines and zoom down.  One day in late '99 I
took the ride up that government road I had been eyeing on the topo map and
found the remnants of an old ridge trail.  Sensing a possible new route, I
took the plunge and attempted to clear a path up the ridge.  Very hard with
a bike in tow and no machete.  I got to where the trail drops down before
the fern forest area.  I gave up as I was getting ripped to shreds at that
point.  Never returned, until I read your story.  I went up there today
armed with my hiking and trail clearing gear, just in case.  I wasn't going
to be denied this time!

As stated in your tale, I went up the Kaneohe end of Old Kalanianaole Road
just past the Girls' Home.  After the first hill the road dips and the
government road (really a driveway) begins on the right on the other side of
someone's garage.  Up the steep and overgrown drive to a former building
site.  A lonely slab is all that remains of some former state facility I
presume.  Just mauka of the slab a hidden jeep trail is revealed.  Left up
the hill and the fun begins.  Immediately unsheathed my trusty blade and
began wailing at the chest high Cal grass.  After a short climb I reached
the ridge trail and proceeded mauka.

There I discovered a very nice trail going up the hill.  Thank you to your
cohorts or whomever paved the way.  It certainly wasn't that nice when I
left it!  I used the machete a few times on the way up to clear away the
usual detritus.  On the way up I found my personal Holy Grail; a lateral
passage contouring my beloved Olomana heading East.  Yes!!  I've been
wanting to link trails for an Olomana circumnavigation for many years, but
never did it.  I will try again at a later date.  If you don't already know,
some rich person (supposedly the daughter of An Wang of word processing
fame) bought up most of the lower makai area of Olomana (mauka of the road)
and is using the local gendarmes to enforce a strict no trespassing policy.
I've been personally kicked out and warned twice.  Neighbors spot people and
call the cops.  They allege that bicycles cause erosion and messes up
Kaelepulu Pond.  The rich just want to keep the riff raff out.  They have
quite an enclave there now. Guess what?  The horses cause a lot more, but I
digress.

Went up and got to the rock face and found the ribbons pointing the way left
and around to the saddle between peaks 1 and 2.  Very nice.  Got to the top
without mishap.  No one there.  I had the whole mountain to myself near noon
on a beautiful Saturday.  What's up with that?  Of course, peaks 2 and 3
were calling and I answered.  The ropes were still there and in OK shape.
Got to 2 no problem and rested.  Two helicopters flew by and we exchanged
waves.  "Look honey, a Hawaiian on top of that skinny hill."  "Well dear, he
looks Japanese to me."

Conditions were ideal.  Cool, not cold.  Breezy, not windy.  High overcast.
I enjoyed myself and  wen hele on to peak 3.  Had a slight problem on one of
the steep faces, but luckily I've been getting into rock climbing and
bouldering lately.  As I clung to the rock face about four feet above the
very narrow trail below and a chasm on the other side, I reeled through my
mental database of how to solve the particular problem I faced.  Suddenly it
dawned on me.  I had two good foot placements and I was in a crouched
position (my hand holds were very sketchy).  Stand up silly.  I extended
both legs and suddenly new and solid hand holds appeared like magic.  I'm
glad I'm not the panicky type, just a little stupid is all.  Having overcome
that dilemma, I attacked the remaining rock faces with enthusiasm.  Atop 3 I
rewarded myself with a PBJ sandwich which was suitably squashed for easier
on trail digestion.  Some water and gorp and the descent down the Makapuu
face was next up.

The cables/ropes were OK until I reached one that was missing.  No problem,
I got rope.  I used a short loop I had previously prepared and strung that
through the bolt someone had left.  I strung my rope through the loop to
double it up and dropped the two ends down the chute about twenty feet.  I
probably could have negotiated the spot without the rope, but why not,
that's why I carry it.  Having completed the drop I simply pulled one end of
the rope and got it back, leaving my loop for the next adventurer.  I carry
carabiners, but didn't need it this time.  Better safe than sorry is my
motto.

I almost took the last dive when a branch broke and I slid a few feet down a
wash directly above the proverbial precipice.  I luckily saved my own life
and heard the sound of some girl screaming like an idiot.  Women.  No one
was around though so I don't know where that girly scream came from.  After
a few minutes of rest I resumed my descent on a narrow ridgeline trail.  I
was just here last week when I took my bike up from the Maunawili side Gov't
Rd.  Just past two fence posts, one metal and one wood, I took the left down
the hill heading makai.  The trail is ribboned (orange).  I took my two
youngest kids (then 8 and 13) up that way a year ago and the trail is in
really good shape.  Thanks again to Mr. Orange ribbon.  Proceeded down,
down, down on a nice trail listening to loud, live Hawaiian music wafting
from Waimanalo below and to the right.  Couldn't see any party down there
though.

Once near the bottom, my next quest, a LEGAL entry to this spot.  Having
studied the tax maps of this entire area, I deduced that Ms. Wang (actually
the official maps on the State website says that a Waimanalo Corp. owns it)
owns the land from just East of the Waimanalo exit of the Old Kalani Rd.
Then the State owns a parcel, then the stables own the next lot.  Therefore,
if I could find the entrance to the State lot I could sidestep the Wang
estate.

Being very familiar with this area, I nosed my way East toward the stables
following the many dirt horse paths down to a gated entrance to the stable.
No Trespassing signs indicated that I had reached the stable land.  With the
highway right there, I knew that the State land was to my immediate left.
What the heck, it's fenced with barbed wire!  I hopped it and found a trail
next to the fence.  Two large horses watched as I invaded their (or the
State's) homestead.  They weren't aggressive and let me be.  I found a
culvert going under the fence and crawled through.  I found myself next to
the speed limit sign on the Waimanalo side of the Waimanalo sign just past
the Old Kalani Hwy exit.

All 100 ounces of water gone from my pack, I just made it home in time to
relax and down a couple of Advils.  I had dilly dallied and enjoyed the
views so much that it took me over 5 hours to do it.  All in all, a good day
in Hawaii.  Tomorrow, mountain biking down Waahila!!

sky 5/19/01

Kulepeamoa, Kupaua, Kuliouou

In the fifth month, in the second year of the new millennium, Sir Jay Man
of Feld dreamed a prophetic dream. In it, he found himself wandering
along mountain trails in three regions.  In his dream, some trails he
romped along had been established generations ago; others had to be
fashioned with brute force and strength. So taken was he by this sleep
vision that Sir Jay sent out word to disciples from the hallowed tribe
once dubbed the WEHOTS. And convinced of the veracity of the apparition
of the Man of Feld, the disciples agreed to accompany him on his quest.

And so it was.  And so it will be written.

At the end of a Place called Kalaau in a valley called Kuliouou,
Jay and the summoned disciples gathered at a brown sign adorned with
bright yellow hieroglyphics, a holy shrine to a tribe called Na Ala Hele,
the keepers of the trails of the land. While facing the shrine, Jay and
the disciples prayed for guidance and wisdom, and a voice from the
heavens told them to go forth as one to the land called Niu and a
mountain ridge called Kulepeamoa.  Thusly, in a holy (holey?) chariot,
guided by Sir Mike of Algiers, the annointed ones set out on their
quest.

Once at Niu, the band of merry men, and one merry woman, commenced the
journey. Let the venerated scrolls of OHE show that the men were Sir Jay
Man of Feld, Sir Mike of Algiers, Sir Jay Son of Sunada, Sir William of
Gorst, and the scribe, Sir Ka of Lama. And she of the fairer sex was
Lady Helene of Sroat.  Ambling amiably in the forest, a motley and
madcap bunch they were.

Soon enough, the pleasant forest trail steepened, and the questers
languished and labored, perspiring in such quantities to sate the dry
stream in the valley below.  But relief came eventually by way of a lovely
breeze-caressed copse of ironwoods atop a mountain called Kulepeamoa,
where the questers cast their bodies down to rest aching limbs, to sup on
sweet snacks, and to soothe parched throats.  Far off to the south, they
spied the bluest of oceans, but, despite its alluring presence, it was
not there they were headed.  It was north they needed to go.

Hastened by Sir Ka of Lama, the merry band recommenced its journey after
the pleasant rest in the ironwood copse.  Over hill dale they
marched, searching for the prophesized place where they would depart the
mountain crest of Kulepeamoa.  And less than a dozen hills northward
from the copse, they found it, in a sheltered dell between hilltops,
amongst  sparse patches of ti and staghorn fern. For future questers,
Sir Jay Man of Feld affixed colorful ribbons to mark the way into a
valley called Kupaua.

Recalling his dream, Sir Jay revealed to his fellow questers a prophecy of
an  ensuing battle in Kupaua.  Thusly, all drew weapons of steel from
their back-borne sacks in anticipation of the impending confrontation.
And the Man from Feld was prophetic indeed, and the battle commenced, with
opposing combatants from the Guava and Christmasberry tribes felled in
great numbers.  Miraculously, none of the questers were struck down, a
testament, no doubt, to the experience gained from many battles waged in
prior quests.

Sir Jay and the disciples battled their way to waterless Kupaua Stream,
leaving a path of destruction in their wake.  Crossing to the stream's far
bank, they continued on, climbing unchallenged at times and jousting with
aggressive Guava and Christmasberry tribesmen at others.  One by one, the
questers thrust their way through the enemy line, fighting a brave
fight to emerge atop the west ridgecrest of Kuliouou.  The last to emerge
was Sir Jay, who proclaimed to all who would listen, "We have battled and
we have won."  He marked the place of proclamation with colorful ribbons,
and he and his fellow questers sat down nearby under a lone ironwood to
for a celebratory feast of sausages, sandwiches, nuts, and sweets.
Sir Jay told of his longing for tortillas made from corn, but none were
seen or to be found.

An hour after noon, with bellies filled with food from the feast, the
questers arose yet again to continue their journey.  Southward they
headed, then downward and leftward into a narrow cleft on a steep slope
covered with needles of ironwood.  A short battle with a wayward tribe of
Guava brought them to a small stream, with stale pools of green water.
Sir Ka of Lama tossed a stone into the largest of murky pools and made
a wish:  "I wish we were riddith of this forsaken place," he said.

"And we will be," said Sir William of Gorst, "once we mount the hill from
hell."  And so it was set forth in Jay's prophetic dream, and so it came
to be. So upward they all went, the mounting of the hell-hill the goal.
Just like on the hills before it, one by one the questers reached the
apex, first Sir Jay Son of Sunada, then one by one the others, casting
their bodies down to rest and rejoice.  "We are here!" said Lady Helene.

"Indeed we are," said the Man from Feld.  "But there is one final test in
our quest: finding the fabled trail made by the lopper-wielding sorcerer
Wing of Ng.  It is south from here."

So rousing themselves once again, southward they headed.

On a rocky hilltop, they found a magic ribbon tied to a vine.  Looking
over the side of the mountain, they saw more ribbons tied to vines and
branches.  Far below, they recognized the Place called Kalaau in the
Valley of Kuliouou and the shrine to Na Ala Hele where they had prayed
for wisdom only hours before. "Ahh, we have found it," said Sir Mike of
Algiers. "The fabled trail is no fable after all."

So down they headed, over rocks, over vines, past branches and trees laid
to waste by the sorcerer Ng.  Whenever there was doubt about which way to
go, they found a magic ribbon pointing the way. "Follow me,"  the ribbons
beckoned, "follow me." In a trance, the questers continued along, down,
down, down.

Led forth by the magic ribbons, they then arrived in a dry stream
filled with a jumble of dead trees and flood-borne branches.  The
sorcerer had fashioned a tunnel through this maze, making for safe
passage for the questers.  "Thank you, Sorcerer Ng," they all proclaimed,
"you are not evil like some make you out to be."

The sorcerer's trail indeed led right to the shrine, and upon arriving
there, each one of the questers sat down near it to pay homage to it and
to give thanks for a journey successfully completed.  Yet another feast
commenced, with Sir Jay offering cold drinks to appease thirst and sweet
cookies to satisfy hunger.

"A great journey it was," said Lady Helene.

"Agreed," echoed her fellows. "We shall do it again someday."

And so it was, and so it will be written.

Maunawili miconia hunting

Like the last several months, Maunawili Valley was the venue for the Sierra Club miconia hunt. We found none of the purple-leafed monsters, but what I've found on these outings is that the fun is in the hunting; finding, though the goal, isn't required. We met at 8:30 at the community park in the valley. HTMers Charlotte, Tom, Justin, and I were among the small group who showed up to search. The husband and wife team of Joby Rohrer and Kapua Kawelo were the coordinators for the hunt. Additionally, Sean, who works full-time for the state as a miconia hunter, was on hand, and he provided transport deep into Maunawili Valley with his state truck. I had never been on the narrow, paved valley road past where the Maunawili Falls trail begins, and it was interesting to see how well-kept it is, what kinds of homes & structures are back there, what kinds of crops are being grown, and how far the road penetrates into the valley (the road becomes dirt and gravel after a mile or so). To give you an idea how deep we got, Sean was able to drive all the way to the base of the large powerline tower that is between the 4.5 and 5.0 markers on the Maunawili Demo trail. From the truck, we were a 5-minute hike from the demo trail. Once on the demo trail, we headed in the Waimanalo direction for about a mile until reaching a junction with Ainoni Ridge. In last month's search, the one where I had an encounter with a pig in a snare, we had done a pretty thorough job of covering the area between Ainoni and Aniani Nui Ridges. So today, the plan was to cover as much as we could between Ainoni and the main powerline ridge we had driven up. To do that, we descended Ainoni ridge on a brushy but discernible trail and after 10 or 15 minutes down, we began peeling off to the left to descend into a large drainage. After a few others had peeled down, Charlotte and I headed left down a spur ridge and began spotting ribbons and pretty decent trail. Just about everyone on the hunt had a walkie-talkie, and as such we all were able to monitor positions and progress. Those things are great. Charlotte and I passed a pile of trash on the ground, which included several water bottles, a can opener, and a tupperware container full of uneaten, moldy rice and meat. We also noticed a thick wall of hau to our left, so we kept on the spur top, hoping that the hau barrier would end to allow us to drop down to Ainoni Stream. Indeed, the hau did abate, and we were able to descend to the stream, which we crossed to its far bank. From there, we began working our way upstream on the slope of the bank along pig trails through guava and around small patches of hau. While doing this, I spotted above us what looked like a people-made contour trail. Closer inspection proved this to be correct. Apparently, this contour path was constructed during the building of the Maunawili Demo trail and used by volunteers to access MDT around the 6-mile mark. Tom and Charlotte, both who put in time in building the demo trail, recalled using this contour route. Today, Charlotte and I followed the contour trail, which after a bit dropped down to cross Ainoni Stream and continue generally on its left bank. We eventually caught up to Justin, who was making his way to the left around a steep waterfall section, and Kapua and Tina (visiting Nature Conservancy worker from Molokai), who were beginning to head up a large ravine to the right of the one Justin was working on. Kapua, after a bit, headed up a steep confluence similar to Justin's, while Charlotte and Tina began scouring a larger one just to the right of Kapua's. Sound confusing? Well, it was, unless you were there, in which case you would have found that we had everything well in hand (at least, we thought so). What did I do? Well, I headed up a narrow ravine to the right of Charlotte's and Tina's. I followed the streambed at times, pig trails at others, and no trail at others. When I reached a place where the ravine split (this happened twice), I headed left each time, always trying to remember why I was there (to look for miconia!). Where I went, I didn't see any trash, prints, or cuttings, signs that a human had been there, but I did see many signs of pigs, including trampled down vegetation that looked only minutes old. At one point, I stopped to inspect a small clearing of smashed down weeds. Interspersed in the leaves were coarse shards of black pig hair. A pua'a bed? Probably. Around 12:30, I finally emerged on the demo trail at a bend in the trail about 100 meters 'Nalo side of the 5-mile marker. From WT transmissions, I found out Justin, Tina, and Charlotte had reached the demo trail around the 5.5 mile mark. Meanwhile, Tom, Joby, Sean and others were a good ways makai and working toward my position. Tom eventually found his way to the dirt road we had driven up in the morning and then walked up a mile or so to the truck. I found a nice shady spot under a trailside ohia tree for lunch and was eventually joined there by Charlotte, Justin, Tina, Joby, and Kapua. Everyone else found their way to the demo trail and the truck, and after reuniting, we loaded up and headed back down. On the way out, Tom directed us to a side road on the right where he had emerged. He told us this offshoot was used by Sierra Club volunteers to access the contour trail Charlotte and I found in the morning. The road is now quite overgrown, but Sean's huge state truck was easily up to the task. We may use this side road on a future hunt. For those who've never done a miconia hunt, I'd encourage you to give it a go, especially if you like exploring places few, if any, folks have gone before. Maunawili's a huge valley and I'd expect there'll be a bunch more outings needed to cover it. --dkt

Friendship Garden, Kokokahi ridge, Kawaewae

I started a month of vacation yesterday, and I decided to join the
Wednesday group (Solemates) for a hike on Kokokahi Ridge (aka Kawaewae
Ridge) in Kaneohe.  This was convenient for me since I live a few minutes
away from the trail.

At 9:30, we met on Mokulele Drive near Dusty Klein's house and were
ferried over to Kokokahi Place in three trucks, one driven by veteran
Bill Gorst, who lives on Kokokahi Place adjacent to the Friendship
Gardens where the trail begins.  Bill was kind enough to let folks use
the lua in his home, and many took him up on his nice gesture.  By my
count, there were about two dozen people in attendance, including the
Solemate's organizers, David and Roger.  Some familiar faces included
John Hall, George Shoemaker, Janice Nako-Piburn, Ruby and Joe Bussen, and
Gordon Muschek.  Bill also did the hike.

The pace for the hike was laid-back, and folks seemed very intent on
gabbing and talking story as they moved along leisurely.  Rest breaks were
often, and there was discussion about the heiau and industrial
buildings on the edge of Kawainui Marsh. Most seemed unconcerned by the
brief rainshowers that spilled down on us.  The trail was in fine
condition, partly because the HTMC recently used it for an outing.  Even
with the occasionally showers, the footing  remained easily manageable,
with no mud at all.

>From the trail's high point, there are a couple of steep slopes to
descend, with ropes affixed as aids.  A bit further ahead, at a low point
where the trail followed an old grassy road, I bailed on the main route to
take an overgrown trail I had stumbled upon once before. No one saw me
take this diversion, which was good since I didn't want to lead anyone
astray on a semi-bushwack. I had no trouble on the descent until I
reached a small grove of hau, which I had to twist and contort my body to
get through.  After that, I continued to descend a bit more steeply,
finally arriving in a small, narrow gulley.  I followed a faint swath,
making my way along what seemed to me as the best line thru the weeds and
vines.  After a few minutes of that, the forest floor opened up, and I
recognized the area as one used for paintball battles by folks who enjoy
that pasttime. I continued on to an exit at the end of Lipalu Place,
then walked back through the Pikoiloa subdivision to my car on Mokulele
Drive.

I spent a couple of minutes talking with Moshe Rappaport, who grilled me
about the upcoming KST backpack. Though I wasn't trying to dissuade him,
my mention of the mud, the overgrown nature of the trail, and the need to
obtain water from streams seemed to do just that.  I also talked briefly
with George and Janice, who had hiked out at the end of Kumakua Place,
the planned exit for the hike. After chatting with them, I headed
home for a shower, lunch, and nap--the latter being the most enjoyable of
the three.

Ahh, it's good to be on vacation.

--dkt

Twin Falls, Ching's Pond, Piilanihale Heiau, Blue Pool, Waianapanapa to Hana coastal trail, Venus Pool, Red Sand Beach, Oheo Gulch

Thirty-something of us--almost all members of HTMC--invaded the Valley
Isle for a couple days of hiking, swimming, eating, and having fun.
The weather wasn't always the best, but as Grant said at one point during
the trip, "Even with the rain and cold, it's better than any day at work."
Yup, he's right about that.

We flew to Maui on Friday morning (5/4), the majority doing so on Aloha
Airlines (better rates? dunno?).  For ground transport, we used
two 15-passenger vans, a mid-sized car, and Mark Short's family van (Mark
is an HTMC member and recently moved to Maui).  Getting all the bags,
gargantuan food supply, and bodies into the four vehicles was a
challenge, but we're talking about folks with plenty of experience
putting cargo--human and otherwise--into the right place.  So no problem.

For the record, the trip participants (35) were as follows:  Mabel Kekina,
Carole K. Moon, June Miyasato, Deetsie Chave, Bill Gorst, Carmen Craig,
Ralph/Bev/Michael Valentino, Jason/Cera/Kimberly Sunada, Kris Corliss &
Larry/Ginger Oswald, Gordon/Connie Muschek, Mark/Jacob/Dylan Short,
Joe/Ruby Bussen, Pat Rorie, Arnold Fujioka, Nathan Yuen, Thea Ferentinos,
Justin Ohara, Grant Oka, Joyce Tomlinson, Ken Suzuki, Mike Algiers,
Helene Sroat, Jackie/Jamie Delgado, Dayle Turner.  A special mahalo goes
to Lynn Agena, who didn't make the trip but was the major mover in
purchasing and preparing the food we ate on the trip. Way to go, Lynn.

After figuring out what/who went where, we made a stop at Safeway in
Kahului to pick up lunch for the day plus snacks and other food items &
supplies needed for the next couple days.  A few people grabbed some
burgers at a nearby Jack in the Box.

Our first hiking/swimming spot was Twin Falls, located at Marker 2 on the
Hana Hwy well past Paia.  Anyone looking for this trailhead should have no
trouble finding it because of the tourist cars parked along the roadside
and a refreshment stand there as well. Many of the places we hiked/swam
began at trailheads with "Keep Out, No Trespassing" signs.  However, most
of these same spots are well-known (based on info available on the 'net
and in books) and well-used (based on the stamped-down nature of the
trails).  Whatever the case, the landowners seem not to enforce what is
said on the signs. As far as Twin Falls, a hike of 10 to 15 minutes
delivered us to a 30-foot cascade where about half of our entourage
took the first of what would be many plunges in the coming days.

Stop 2 was at Ching's Pond, a clear, pleasant swimming hole located on the
ocean side of the highway.  I don't recall the nearest mile marker for
this spot, but I do remember it is several miles before Pua'a Kaa
Park.  We ate lunch at Ching's Pond.  Afterward we made the 100-foot
climb back to the highway, crossed it, and then headed mauka on a jeep
road to a pool Ken said was fantastic.  Unfortunately, only a handful made
it to the pool (I didn't) to experience its fantastic-ness.  Maybe next
time.

Stop 3 was at Puaa Kaa Wayside.  No hiking here.  Just a quick stop to use
the lua and to stretch the legs.

Our next stop was supposed to be Hanawi Falls, accessed via a trailhead at
the end of the road down to Nahiku.  As would be the case during our trip,
plans changed often, sometimes minute to minute (okay, that's an
exaggeration but it seemed that way on occasion).  So instead of Hanawi,
we drove on to Kahanu Gardens, home of Piilanihale Heiau, the largest in
Hawaii.  We arrived after the 2 pm closing of the Gardens, but Mabel had
heard from someone that we could enter the grounds nonetheless, so that's
what we did.  The Gardens are immaculately kept and feature a variety of
unusual trees like jackfruit and eggfruit.  On the ~1-mile walk to
the heiau, we met some caretakers of the garden.  They suggested a $5 per
person donation for our visit, but our negotiators whittled the total
down to $60 for the 35 of us and later to no cash and a few hours of
labor in the gardens at a future date.  Hmmm, maybe $60 is the better
deal.

A bit about Piilanihale: it was built in the 14th century for the
benevolent, beloved Maui chief, Piilani.  The site was overgrown with
weeds until the 1970s and is now a National Historic Landmark. The heiau's
dimensions are 415 x 340 feet.  Huge and majestic.

The next stop took us on a short drive to the end of the road past
Kahanu Gardens.  From there, we rockhopped along the coast for five
minutes to Blue Pool, a wonderful seaside swimming spot at the foot of a
vegetation-covered cliffside cascade.  It was late in the day and overcast
during our visit, so conditions weren't optimal, but many of us took the
plunge nevertheless, including Pat in his spiffy, new wetsuit.

Waianapanapa State Park was our final stop of the day, and the cabins and
campgrounds there would be our homebase for the rest of our stay.  We had
four cabins reserved for 24 (plus 1).  Another six tent-camped at the
site next to the caretaker's house.  And four stayed at a rental in
Hana town.  Prior to the trip, we had all pitched in money for food, with
dinners (teri chicken & curry stew) prepared and eaten at a central
designated cabin.  Breakfasts (eggs, sausage, hot cereal) were prepped
and eaten at individual cabins (with tent campers and the four rental
dwellers eating at a cabin of their choice).  Sandwich fixings,
chips, fruit, and trail mix were made available to each cabin for
in-the pack lunches. It all worked out well.  I was one of the tenters and
enjoyed the benefit of a quiet night's sleep, which wasn't necessarily
the case for those in the cabins (read: snoring).  I had to deal with some
rain, with setting up and breaking down my tent, and with the half-mile
walk to and from the cabins, but these were minor inconveniences.

Day 2 (Saturday) was all about rain and dreary weather.  But as hardcore
HTMC folks, we're undaunted by such conditions.  After breakfast, we set
out in a light drizzle on the rocky coastal trail from Waianapanapa to
Hana town, a distance of about three miles.  Along the way, we
passed a shack maintained by fishermen and a couple of older shoreside
homes with guardian dogs.  Right before the homes we came to a dirt road
heading inland, which turned out to be the quick route to the road into
town.  A bunch of us with a disdain for dirt roads continued along the
coast to  eventually reach a black sand beach where we were able to
access a paved road leading to the road into town. A key turnoff en
route was a grassy  road marked by a fishing lure hanging in a tree.  A
pleasant surprise to me was that Jackie (my girlfriend) and Jamie (her
daughter) were able to stay up near the front of the group without
complaining since they don't hike as much as the rest of us. Good job to
those two.

We all were able to find our way to the road to town and ended up at the
Hana pier, where we had staged the vans earlier in the morning.  We spent
time at Tutu's Snack Shop (pricey but one of the few games in town),
enjoying warm coffee, cocoa, ice cream, and whatever else we wanted.  The
snack shop and pier sits at the foot of a massive 400-foot pu'u named
Kauiki.  On the opposite side of Kauiki is Red Sand Beach, our next
supposed destination of the day. But the due to the weather and rough
ocean conditions, the plan was altered and the next stop was changed to
Venus Pool (aka Waioka Pool). A few folks didn't get wind of the
modified plan and attempted to hike around the seaward side of Kauiki to
reach Red Sand Beach.  However, they discovered vertical sea cliffs made
this impossible, so they climbed up to the crest of Kauiki and down its
mauka side.

The trail to Venus Pool is just after mile marker 48 on the
Hana-town side of Waiohonu Bridge.  A 100-meter walk brought us to the
pool, which features several rocky outcrops for jumping and diving.  The
stars of Venus Pool were na keiki, Ginger and Jamie, who jumped off the
highest rock (~40 feet) several times each.  While a few of the men
leaped from this high perch, most macho types (like me) did not (yup,
chicken).  So hats off to the daring youngsters.

Our final stop of day 2 was Red Sand Beach, located on the southern side
of Kauiki.  Reputedly a place frequented by nude sunbathers, Red Sand
Beach does indeed have red sand.  What it didn't have on this day were any
nudists. In fact, members of our group were the first on the beach
thought after our arrival a few other folks arrived.  Yes, we shed our
clothes.  But no one shed all his or her clothes.  Cera, perhaps wanting
to burn some  excess energy, climbed partway up the steep slope
overlooking the beach. Way to go, Cera.

We returned to Waianapanapa after an hour at RSB, with most folks opting
to shower, change, snack, and relax.  Mark and I decided to hike the
coastal trail to the Hana Airport, and this took us about an hour.
Along the way, we passed a couple of fishermen, a rocky terrace that
appeared to be a grave, and a benchmark stamped into a lava rock.  A sign
on the trail directed us to the "Airport Exit" and the trail emerged at
the end of airport runway, unprotected by a fence or wall.  As we stood
there, we saw a plane heading for a landing.  We watched it touch down, do
a u-turn, and then taxi to the small single-story building that serves as
the Hana Airport terminal.

In about five minutes, Mark and I completed the walk to the terminal.  The
pilots of the just-landed plane had already unloaded its cargo, which
included stacks of the Honolulu Advertiser and a box of pizza destined for
the Hana Ranch Store. We chatted briefly with the terminal manager, a
low-key Hawaiian bla-lah, who asked us how our hike had gone.  After
watching the plane take off, Mark and I headed back to Waianapanapa,
meeting Jason and Pat along the way.  The two-hour hike was a good
workout and relaxing at the same time--just what I needed to end the day.

On the way back, I heard Gordon announce on the walkie-talkie that dinner
would be ready at 6 pm.  Noticing that it was nearing 5:30, I picked up
the pace a bit and decided against a visit to Waianapanapa Cave.  Instead,
I picked up a change of clothes from my tent, and then hustled over to
the cabin where Jackie and Jamie were staying.  I took a warm shower
there (that felt wonderful), changed, and  headed over to the dinner
cabin for kaukau (leftover teri chicken and curry stew--ono!).

The dinner cabin was the gathering place for the 35 of us, with folks
partaking of relaxing libations, good food, fun games (uno), interesting
entertainment (highlighted by Larry's dancing and harmonica playing), and
animated conversations.  I walked back to my tent at 10 p.m. and had
another quiet, restful night of sleep.

Sunday was the day we said aloha to Waianapanapa.  The game plan:  eat
breakfast; pack up our gear; clean up the cabins; group A would backtrack
along the Hana Highway to Nahiku to do the hike to Hanawi Falls; group B
would drive ahead to Kipahulu to Oheo Gulch for swimming and hiking;
Groups A & B would regroup at Kipahulu in the early afternoon then
continue on past Kaupo for a pit stop at the Tedeschi Winery in
Ulupalakua.

The above plan worked well.  I went with group B, having previously done
the Hanawi Falls hike and wanting to stick with the J&J girls.  The drive
from Waianapanapa to Kipahulu took about 30 minutes (Ralph did a
fantastic job of driving on the trip) and when we arrived
at the Oheo Gulch parking area, we were almost the first ones there.
Mabel suggested we head makai to the pools first and later head mauka. If
we flip-flopped the order, said Mabel, then the makai pools would be
flooded with tourists on our return. Made sense to me.

With J&J, Mabel, Cera, Carole, the kids, and others, I spent at least an
hour and a half swimming and taking it easy at the pools near the ocean.
A highlight was watching Carole jump off a rock into the lower pool.
This wasn't easy for her since she has personal demons associated with
rocks and water to reckon with.  But she did it.  Nice job!

Wanting some exercise, I shouldered my pack and headed up the trail into
the valley to Waimoku Falls.  Ralph, Bev, Jason, Joe, Ruby, Deetsie, and
others had earlier hiked ahead. The trail was dry most of the way, and a
good deal of its upper section is a boardwalk thru a large bamboo forest.
Waimoku, a 400-footer, was impressive, and I spent a few minutes taking in
its beauty.  I headed up the trail to the falls on the left before
Waimoku, and partway down I ran into Ralph, Bev, Deetsie, and Jason, who'd
visited the left-falls and were heading down.  I turned around at that
point and hiked out with them.

Jason, on the way out of the valley, went off to explore a side stream
leading to a lesser-known waterfall.  There he saw three pot-smoking guys
who shed their clothes for some naked swimming.  Not surprisingly, he
didn't join them for a toke or a dip.

Meanwhile, Ralph, Bev, and Deetsie stopped at the top of 200-foot Makahiku
Falls for lunch.  I joined them briefly and then headed back down to our
van, where I found that members of Group A had arrived after doing the
Hanawi Falls hike.  After another half hour of resting and eating lunch,
we all boarded our vehicles--now three vans and a car--to drive on the
rought road to Kaupo then Tedeschi Winery.  Several miles past Kaupo, at
a bridge crossing over a rocky gulch, Carmen's van pulled over and Carmen
and most of her passengers deboarded for a middle-of-nowhere potty
break.  In  contrast, no one in our van felt the need to answer nature's
call.  What's up with that?

The road on the way to Ulupalakua is dry and rocky, akin to the Makapuu
area on Oahu, but the roadway is narrower, rougher, and at times
meandering like a snake as if the road builders were drunk during
construction.  In our van, a battle of the songs began, with the kids
singing a can-can tune and Carole and Jackie belting out the itsy-bitsy
spider song.  The singers were having fun, no doubt.

We stopped for 45 minutes at Tedeschi, with some folks partaking of free
wine samples offered by the winery staff.  We then drove over to Joyce's
house in Makawao, where we cleaned up for the flight home.  After gassing
up the vans in Kahului, we headed to the airport for the flight home.

Jackie, Jamie, and I had reservations for the 7:25 Hawaiian Air flight to
Honolulu but we decided at the last minute to stay on extra day on Maui.
We grabbed a rental car, a room in the Maui Surf, and ate a sumptuous meal
of crispy chicken, 5-seasoning roast duck, and egg foo yong at a Chinese
restaurant.

On Monday, we ate at the hotel buffet (eggs and sausage!), then drove up
to Haleakala to spend the morning there.  We stopped at the visitor's
center, where I inquired about open spots in the cabins in the coming
month, and among the open dates were some on the Memorial Day weekend.
Anyone interested should call up the visitor's center (572-4400) between 1
and 3 pm to check for open dates.  We then drove up and parked in the lot
by the Sliding Sands trailhead (the road to the actual summit was closed
to vehicles).  We cruised around the area, taking a ton of photos,
including many of the crater's interior, free of clouds.

After a half hour at the top, we headed back down, stopping at the
visitor's center one more time (lua break), then on down to Kahului Costco
where we dropped off five rolls of film for the 1-hour quickie service.
We then ate lunch (McDonald's), and drove up thru rustic Wailuku town to
Iao Needle, where we hiked around the paved loop trail, snapping more
photos as we went.  For those who've never visited Iao, its significance
is well-documented, particularly as the 1790 battle site between Maui
defenders and the invading army of Kamehameha.  So many warriors died in
the fighting that their corpses blocked the flow of Iao Stream, leading to
the naming of the area as Kepaniwai, literally "damming of the waters."

>From Iao, we drove northwest on route 340 (Kahekili Hwy) in search of the
trailhead of the Waihee Ridge trail.  About a 20-minute drive from Wailuku
got us there, but since it was late in the afternoon, we didn't have time
to hike it.  Maybe next time.

We returned to Kahului, picked up the photos at Costco (Jackie has 'em
now so don't ask me to see them), dropped off the rental car, and checked
in for the 6 pm flight back to Honolulu.

Things I learned from this trip:

--With a big group and spotty weather, expect plans to change often.

--The weather, especially in the Hana area, is a big factor in daily
  planning.

--The more walkie-talkies the better.

--Even with walkie-talkies, communication isn't a sure thing.

--Hiking leisurely and taking it easy has its place.

--I'll never go hungry with this group.

--I'll never volunteer to drive a van on the Hana Highway (so don't ever
  ask me!).

--Always bring duct tape.

Aloha and pau,

--DKT

Waianae, Makaha, Dodge ridge to Kamaileunu

Pat, Ed, Steve, and I logged a good amount of hiking today.  We all
started in Waianae Valley and made our way up the No-Name Peak side
of the Waianae Kai trail, a no-nonsense climb  and a good
workout.  From there, we descended an ancient Hawaiian trail, nowadays
used mostly by hunters, to Makaha Valley.  This trail is well-defined in
its upper third but less so the rest of the way as it descends thru guava.
Pink ribbons helped us navigate our way.

Once down in Makaha, we headed makai on a well-used trail along
gently-flowing Makaha Stream.  At one point, Pat led us up a short side
trail on the right that took us in a couple minutes to a pu'u with a
panoramic view of the valley.  Pat and I agreed that the surroundings
reminded us of what one might see from Smoke Rock in Kalalau.  Very nice.

The valley trail led to a Board of Water Supply well and a paved road
leading to the well.  We walked down the road, our next objective being to
find a trail on the left that would lead us to a spur ridge up to the
terminus of the Kamaileunu Trail.  HTMC vet Fred Dodge has hiked this
before, so I christened this Fred Dodge's Ridge.

We walked past the obscure trail on our way down but after backtracking,
we found it (a large pole, and now pink ribbons, mark the spot).  The
trail proceeds into a forest of coffee and macadamia trees for 50-60
meters then veers right on a contour.  After that, the way became
indistinct, and we switched into path-of-least resistance mode, with Pat
as the hammer man.

After about 15 minutes of pushing through, we began climbing a distinct,
rocky ridge.  Yes, this was Dodge Ridge, which we hoped would deliver us
to the summit of Kamaileunu.  We were optimistic yet apprehensive
since none of us had ever hiked this route all the way before (Pat,
Steve, Wing, and I had explored the lower section a few years ago).

Happily, the ridge was quite good, with no chopping necessary and no
overly challenging or taxing rock climbing, at least until we neared the
summit. Goats rule this ridge, evidenced by the well-used paths they've
created and the piles of dung they've left behind.  Additionally, the
acrid aroma of goat urine leaves quite an impression.

As we approached the 2000-foot level, Pat picked up the pace and pressed
forward ahead of the rest of us.  As we neared 2500 feet, we reached a
level section where we could see Pat 100 meters ahead.  He had stopped at
the base of a radical-looking rock section, and it was obvious to us that
Pat had ceased hiking because the section was a dangerous one.

Steve, Ed, and I eventually reached the base of the rock section and
followed Pat to the left on a narrow bypass used by goats. A
big drop had us moving very cautiously.  We decided that this left
bypass was too risky, so we backtracked to the face of the rock section
and explored bypass possibilities on the right.  These didn't pan out, so
the only option was to attempt the face straight on if the summit were to
be acquired.

Testing every foot- and handhold several times, Pat went first.  As we
nervously watched, he made it and then reported that ridge ahead looked
doable.  Ed, exercising the same kind of caution, went next.  Success.
Next in line were Steve and I.  Admittedly, I was very nervous about
climbing this face but after watching Pat and Ed make it okay, I felt I
could do it.  Steve, a very cautious sort, opted not to try it, even
after my concerted pep talk about what a great climber he is (which is no
BS).

Not wanting Steve to have to descend the ridge and find his way out of
Makaha alone, I decided to pass on the summit and head down with him. I
yelled out our plan to Pat and asked that he drive over to the end of
Kili Drive in Makaha to pick us up.  Pat said he would.

So Pat and Ed continued up the ridge to reach the Kamaileunu terminus and
then hiked makai on that trail to Kepauula and the ridge that descended to
the junkyard in Waianae Valley. Earlier, Pat had left his vehicle on a
residential street near the junkyard.

In the meantime, Steve and I headed back down, stopping at the 1400-foot
level to examine what we thought was a halapepe tree.  We eventually
reached the BOWS road and headed makai on it toward Kaneaki Heiau.  Just
mauka of Kaneaki, we veered right on a trail, leaving the road behind.
This trail was overgrown with grass but still discernible.  We crossed
the stream a handful of times and then emerged on a fairway of the Makaha
Valley Golf Course.  Not wanting to walk out on the golf course, we
backtracked a minute on the trail and found another trail heading off in
the direction of the Makaha condo towers and Kili Drive.  We followed
it. Steve and I eventually emerged on Huipo Drive, where we turned right
for the short walk to the end of Kili Drive by the security checkpoint
for the Makaha Towers.  We sat down  to rest on a bus stop bench and five
minutes later Pat and Ed pulled up to pick us up.  Great timing!

In all, it was a good day of hiking.  The weather stayed fairly cool all
day, with just a brief passing drizzle around 2:30.  By 5 p.m., we all
were motoring off for home.

Some notes, not necessarily hike-related:

1.  Posthike, on the way back up Waianae Valley to pick up my vehicle, we
passed a large gathering of people in an undeveloped lot where Waianae
Valley Road veers left and narrows.  Chicken fight!

2. Regular unleaded gas is $1.76 a gallon in Nanakuli!  I filled up on the
way home.

3. Around 5:30, Ed (passenger) and I (driving) witnessed an accident on H1
right by the Waikele offramp.  While traveling in the center lane, we
saw a car two lanes to our left slam into a light pole along the center
median and flip over 5 to 6 times. We pulled over to render aid and Ed
called 911 on his cell phone.  Miraculously, the driver and his
passenger survived!

--dkt

Friendship Garden and Kokokahi

Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 17:01:20 -1000
From: Shelly Bermudez <sbermudez@ywcaoahu.org>
To: turner@hawaii.edu
Subject: Friendship Garden

Aloha,

My name is Shelly Bermudez and I am the Program Manager of YWCA Camp
Kokokahi.  Upon conducting a word search of Kokokahi, I came across your
webpages about your hiking experience and the spirit dog.  Mahalo for
sharing your story.  For the past 5 years that I have been at the camp, I
have been interested in hearing any ghost stories about the Kokokahi
site.

Some brief history on Kokokahi.....

Dreams are realized in a diversity of ways, but few so beautifully as
that of Theodore Richards who envisioned  a Hawaiian valley where people
of many races would work, play, and pray together in harmony.  This was
"Kokokahi" of one blood.  This was the name he gave the valley when his
dream came to life in 1928.  His vision of Kokokahi was inspired by the
moving sermon of St. Paul in Chapter XVII of the Acts of Apostles.

Friendship Garden was a part of the whole Kokokahi system.  Mr. & Mrs.
Jack Gillmar, their children and numerous volunteers labored for 25 years
to restore and maintain the garden. In 1998, The Friendship Garden
Foundation obtained the deed for the property from the YWCA.  Mr. and
Mrs. Gillmar believe it is very important  to maintain the garden to
continue Dr. Richard's dream.  Mr. Gillmar's grandfather, Frank Schudder,
a Congregational missionary was a friend of Dr. Richards and played an
active role in Kokokahi's early days.

Russell Porter and Ted Talbott, two Windward residents were helpful in
restoring the trials that connected to the garden. One of the trails that
ties into Friendship Garden is named the Dudley Talbott Trail.  It was
built by Ted Talbott in honor of his grandfather, Paul Dudley.  It is
said that Mr. Tolbott, with the help of a few friends, worked about 1,000
hours and completed the trail in about 9 months.

If you are interested in more information about YWCA Camp Kokokahi,
please feel free to call the camp at the phone number below.

Aloha Nui Loa,

Shelly Bermudez
YWCA of O'ahu
Camp Kokokahi
45-035 Kaneohe Bay Drive
Kaneohe, Hawaii   96744
(808)247-2124 ext. 11
www.ywcaoahu.org